Friday, February 24, 2023

Carson City, NV

Nevada is underrated. Most people only ever go to Las Vegas (which holds next-to-no appeal for me), but northern Nevada is pretty cool! There’s Lake Tahoe, the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the “Biggest Little City,” Reno, as a hub. We spent a few days in Carson City, the State’s Capital, visiting family and one of my childhood friends from Germany. It wasn’t my initial intention, but I liked the area enough that it’s worth an assessment for the Goldilocks Project. I’ll focus on Carson City, since that’s where we were, but I’d be open to other parts of Northern Nevada.

The Good

  • Their area is underrated, so outside of the “big cities” of Reno and Carson City, it’s pretty sparse and affordable.
  • The exception to that is Californians. Our relations were saying that Californians are starting to discover it and move in. No surprise because you still have easy access to fun parts of California, but you’re paying $1+ less per gallon of gas and property prices and taxes are way more manageable.
  • Carson City has everything we’d want, plus it’s only 45 minutes away from Reno when we need the airport and larger-scale entertainment. 
  • Most of the State’s population is in the cities, which means politics tend to lean liberal. 
  • Lake Tahoe is only 30 minutes away and it’s gorgeous! I know I’m not the first to say that, but wow! Since it’s a popular tourist destination, I’m happy to see that there is other lakes and rivers nearby that I expect are more locals-only spots.
  • The city is bordered by the Carson Range, and then the Sierra Nevadas are not much further west. We enjoyed skiing at Palisade Tahoe one day, and I already know I like hiking in the area since we spent 21 days backpacking the Sierra Nevadas this summer.
  • Built in family and friends is always a plus, and it’s in a good middle-ground between both of our immediate families.  

    The Bad

    • Although it’s not Las Vegas, gambling is omnipresent in Nevada. There are casinos of course, but even gas stations and convenient stores typically have a few slot machines. 
    • I’m worried about water conservation and access. The fact that Lake Tahoe is so pristine it’s a good indication that the State is aware that ongoing water access is crucial to living in its dry climate and is taking water conservation seriously. 
    • Summer heat is a concern. Average temperatures are pretty manageable, but historic highs are far beyond what I want to put up with.

    The Verdict

    Yes, but we don’t know much about it. Before it sneaks into the top 5 we need to do a deeper drive. 

    Lake Tahoe is amazing and a huge selling point.

    Even in the winter, the lake was attracting folks for multiple reasons, including some sort of kite surfing-type thing. 

     
    Although technically in California, we enjoyed skiing at Palisade Tahoe. That said, there are some ski areas on the Nevada side. 

    The ski area was packed, mostly with tech folks working in San Francisco based on the conversations I overheard in the aerial tram.

    Views of the Carson Range from a Carson City neighborhood. 

    Nevada State capital building. 

    Apologies for the limited and bad photos. I didn’t expect to add Carson City as a blog spot until pretty late into our visit. 

    We had good pizza and beer at Great Basin Brewing. 

    After auditing casinos I’m less dismissive of them than I used to be, but they still aren’t appealing. 

    Saturday, February 18, 2023

    Vanlife: An Update

    Wow wow wow – it’s been over one year since our first “practice trip.” At this point, I think we’ve become true vanlifers and have gotten ourselves into some vanlife-specific predicaments. I still hesitate to disclose our living situations to everyone, but I think Cameron and I have both mellowed out about a lot of things thanks to our unusual life style.

    Over the holidays, we saw quite a few friends for the first time since moving into the van. The most common comments were:

    1) “It’s way bigger than I realized from the pictures!” – Yep! From tires up, Vanjie is about 10ft tall and 24ft long. That’s about double the height and length of a standard car.

    2) “Every section is so multifunctional!” – That’s the nature of tiny house living. I’ve tried to detail the layout in previous posts, and I’m really proud of our setup and ingenuity. One friend we saw who also lives in a tiny house was very complimentary, which felt extra special since he knows just how tough it can be to make a small space livable.

    The next comment is typically either “I wish I could live in a van like you” or “I could never do what you’re doing.” I also tend to oscillate between those two beliefs about myself and this lifestyle. Some days I’m so amazed that I am jumping between three national parks in one week, and others where I would give anything for a shower. It was the latter mindset that led us to accept free showers from a homeless services center in Greenlake, Seattle. Waiting in the intake room unsure if I should pretend to be homeless even though I have everything in the world except an easily accessible shower was one of those vanlife-specific situations I never expected to get in to.

    Some other recent showers have included an Oregon YMCA ($2 to use the locker room showers after 7pm), a community bathroom that was supposed to be $1/minute but the quarter intake machine was broken so it was only $0.25/minute(!), and a dingy convenient store outside of Death Valley National Park (also only $2). Many truck stops have showers, but we’ve managed up avoid those since they tend to cost $8-$12 a pop. Winter living is less sweaty, but shower options are often seasonally closed, so finding a spot after we’d already pushed it a day too long has led us on some interesting detours.

    The most interesting detour to-date (not shower related) was returning to Port Angeles, WA for a jury duty summons. Luckily we were still in the Pacific Northwest and didn’t have to fully drive across the country to meet my civic duty. I did, however, ask my sister-in-law to forge my signature in the “yes I will attend jury duty” form. We were in Oregon, and instead of taking the most direct route, we drove up the Oregon and Washington coasts via Highway 101, which is considered one of the most beautiful road trips in the US. We didn’t have the time to take a tour of the Tillamook Creamery, but I finally saw the coastal part of the Olympic National Park. If you’re curious, I had to go into court one day as part of the jury pool, but I never made it into the jury box. 

    Yes, having to back track was mildly frustrating, but like I said, I am so chill and flexible now. Maybe to a default, because we’re forcing all of our relations to be flexible with us. If you were able to meet up with me with less than 24-hours notice, thank you! And if you’re someone who I said I would meet up with in January and then never reached out, I’m sorry! Can I blame the jury duty?

    Special extra thanks to anyone who let us use their shower, laundry, and/or driveway, especially if you are someone who only knows us tangentially. Cameron and I tend to think of ourselves as courteous and unimposing rule followers, but we’ve had to get over that to some extent. We’ve slept in a friend’s parents’ yard (we had never previously met her parents), in the parking lots of a few overcrowded apartment complexes (but only when we knew someone in the complex), and in a hard-to-come-by spot in the center of the very urban Capital Hill, Seattle. 

    Similarly, we’ve been in many social situations than Cameron is normally uncomfortable with, but he’s been handling it like a champ. When I pointed that out to him, he theorized that living in a van has forced him into the unknown enough that now social uncertainties seem relatively minor. I think it might also be that he’s sick of just talking to me because I tend to zone out when he tells stories (sorry Cam!). Maybe it’s the van, or maybe it’s just normal aging, but Cameron has started taking center stage in social settings, and I’m happy taking a step back. 

    For me, that’s partially because I’m not sure how to relate to people anymore. My day-to-day typically starts with a rabbit licking my face, driving to a scenic parking spot, working for five hours, and then deciding where to head for the next night – probably not the most relatable life style. In the rare times I’ve met someone else who seems to be living in a van, I’m too self conscious to have a meaningful conversation with them. 

    Despite having an Ikon pass and a blog, I’m not enough of a ski bum/influencer to relate to the other young well-off vanlifers, and I want to keep it that way! But not only am I living an unusual life, but I don’t know what to ask people about their more mundane lifestyles. I will happily take suggestions on suitable questions to ask people, especially for folks who are homebodies and/or have kids. I know this is a personal flaw. In fact, I’m often quite envious of people who have seemingly unchanging schedules.

    But that’s not us, so what’s next? We’ve seen everything on the list (except the East Coast towns, but I’m ok making our final decision without visiting those) and likely will likely try to spend some extended time in the final few. As I write this, we are heading to Taos for a family ski weekend and a  round 2 assessment. We’ll ski our way back up to Utah (because we have upcoming dentist appointments) and then decide on next steps. 

    Vanlife can be exhausting, especially since we try to maximize seeing as much as possible as we travel. (This photo taken in Hood River, OR.)

    Got to get a Cameron sleeping photo, too (this taken near Klamath Falls, OR).

    And just to round out our little trio, Pancake has started to jump up on the bed in the middle of the night.

    I’ve tried to explain this before, but we have a bench seat over the toilet, a drop down table, and a tuck-away shower curtain all sharing the same space.

    We try to keep tidy, but it’s hard. We’ve been keeping a towel on the floor to keep the floors cleaner, but winter also means a lot more wet muck and jackets piling up. 

    More of the mess: the toilet paper still doesn’t have a permanent place, nor do our shoes, and Pancake has slowly been tearing apart a Sisters, OR tourism magazine.

    Despite the restraints, we keep up our creative cooking habits. We attempted homemade flatbread pizzas outside of Lava Beds National Monument.

    Photo from Lava Bed National Monument (Golden Dome Cave).

    The working situation is still the same: special  views of napping bunny and our ZZ plant.

    Many dump stations are closed for winter, which is why we ended up at this remote WA state park (Cape Disappointment). 

    With less dump stations, we have less options for in-van showering (because we need full water and an empty gray tank) which is why we ended up at this homeless center in Seattle. I’m getting a hands-on appreciation of public services that serve a great purpose!

    Another public shower situation. They’re rarely nice, but always appreciated.

    We’re staying plenty warm in the van, even with many nights at sub-freezing temperatures. We also now have snow chains, just in case. 

    We’ve been making good use of our Ikon passes. We’ve skied in 4 states already. This photo is from Crystal Mountain in WA.
     
    Here’s one from Palisade Tahoe, CA. We also skied Mammoth Mountain, CA; Mount Bachelor, OR; a few spots in UT; and we’re on our way to Taos, NM.

    We also did some backcountry skiing in a few National Parks: Lassen Volcanic NP (pictured) and Olympic NP.

    Needless to say, we’ve gotten plenty of out of our $80 annual America the Beautiful pass. This photo taken at a protected natural area on the Oregon coast.

    Pancake spent a little bit of time on this beach. We let her outside whenever it’s reasonable. 

    Here she is at a park near Edmonds, WA. 

    We need to keep her enriched, otherwise she gets herself in trouble. 

    Part of her enrichment is meeting new friends, like her in-law, Zoe, who she hung out with a more than expected because of my jury duty summons. 

    Proof that I had to be in court. 

    We’re legal residents of Port Angeles, WA, so I was hanging out at the Clallam County Courthouse. 

    We were previously in WA for the holidays, including my office holiday party. It’s hard to get fancy when you live in a van, but I think we did pretty well.

    Since it was the first longer visit in Washington since moving into the Vanjie, we gave a lot of van tours. 

    Cameron also stepped out of his comfort zone – he did karaoke!

    Friday, February 10, 2023

    Corvallis, OR

    I visited a friend here a few summers ago, and she was quick to say how boring Corvallis is. We had a fun time that day floating down the Willamette River, but it did seem pretty rural despite its size (60,000 people). Embarking on this project, I thought the oxymoronic nature of a rural city could be perfect.

    We only spent half a day in Corvallis, but in that time we visited two bakery/cafes (one was far superior than the other), walked along the river front, moseyed around town, and checked out the Oregon State University campus. 

    The Good

    • It sits in a good in-between location. You’re less than two hours away from the mountains, the ocean, and a few larger cities (including Eugene and Portland), but it has everything we’d want for week-to-week living much closer. 
    • It’s caterers to the university, so things around town are pretty affordable.
    • OSU is a gorgeous campus! I doubt we’d visit it often, but there are perks to being near a desirable school. 

      The Bad

      • It seemed boring. When I searched for ideas of how to spend the day, very little piqued my interest. 
      • The region has a lot of beer and wine production, and I think there are some related majors at OSU, which seems to translate to “going out drinking” as one of the top forms of entertainment. 
      • The Riverfront Park was almost inaccessible because of all of the homeless encampments. 
      • Maybe we were just unlucky, but the stank of weed seemed omni-present anytime we were outside.

      The Verdict

      No, thank you. I’d consider it if I were a high school student about to choose a college, but not as an adult looking for a rest-of-my-life location.

      This above-dumpster ally art made an unusual, but promising, first impression. 

      The bit of art around town was a little grittier, which I also liked. 

      The first cafe we stopped at was a bust, but I enjoyed watching these two on a potential first date.

      The second bakery, Bodhi Cafe, was popping. 

      Wine bars and breweries abound. 

      More beer. Truly it was on every block, which is a pro for some, but I don’t want that to be the only point of interest. 

      There was stuff going on around town, but the majority of it revolved around alcohol consumption. 

      Generally, downtown was cute enough, but not particularly special. 

      The theater did seem to boast interesting cult favorites, including The Room.

      Architecturally there was some character. I think this building is city hall. 

      The riverside walkway was pretty drab this time of year, and largely taken over by pot smokers, even at 10am. 

      I did love the OSU campus though. Look how majestic this building’s entrance is!

      There were also these cute little food delivery robots on campus. 

      Open ocean is only an hour’s drive. 

      Thursday, February 2, 2023

      Bend/Sisters, OR

      Bend and Sisters were two distinct options in the original 43, but they are only 30 minutes away from one another and we spent our five days in the area jumping back and forth between them. Bend is the big city in the area, with a population around 100,000, yet the airport is in Redmond (a town about 1/3 the size of Bend, and which creates a nice triangle with Brnd and Sisters. We didn’t spend any time there, which is why it’s not included in this assessment.) Sisters, named after the Three Sisters Mountains, is relatively tiny – only 3,000 people – yet it is a popular vacation destination. Both spots are popular for outdoor enthusiasts, and more recently, remote workers like us.

      The region is covered in sparse ponderosa pine forests, and a big portion of the surround lands are designated BLM and national forest. There are lots of creeks that ultimately feed into the Deschutes River, which flows through Bend. Mount Bachelor is a prominent stand-alone volcano which offers 360° skiing.

      Bend: My first impressions were negative – it feels like a city that has a lot of wealth and not much unique character. However, after a few days we eased into it and found some spots that felt more local. We especially like eating Northern Thai food at Wild Rose and walking alongside the Deschutes River whitewater park. Plus, rich-people towns have nice things: plenty of parks, a free showing of Shrek at the Tower Theater, free life vests and helmets available at common River put-ins, nice walking trails…you get the idea.

      Sisters: I kept needing to remind myself that I was in Oregon, not Wyoming or Montana, because Downtown had a strong western theme. Despite its small population, there was a lot of offer, including two bakeries, cheap public showers, and miles of trails walking distance from downtown. Everyone we talked to was enthusiastic about potentially welcoming two new remote workers, and the town seems to pride itself on being adaptable.

      The Good

      • Tons of outdoor access without having to sacrifice city amenities.
      • East of the Cascades and far enough south that dreary darkness is not a concern. Yet, close enough to the Cascades that you can go out for a mossy fern-filled day hike. 
      • Open to remote workers. By some measures Bend has the highest percentage of remote workers in America. We would have a built in community.
      • Trails galore, and would be great for Cameron’s running goals. 
      • In summary, we are the exact demographic that area caters to: van-owning digital nomads who are looking to settle down in a well-balanced community. 

      The Bad

      • Too expensive and too many rich people.
      • It’s already discovered. In my fantasy, we’re the first of our kind to happen upon an undiscovered gem. 
      • Seasonal influxes could probably be annoying.

      The Verdict

      Yes. There is a lot here that is our wish list, but the big hesitation is that this area has already been discovered. Do I really want to jump on the bandwagon?

      Biking, both road and mountain biking, is a big deal in this region. There are tons of cycling shops and I saw this Oregon bike in both towns (this one was in Sisters).

      Picture-wise, let’s start with Sisters.

      Despite its size, there seemed to be some in-town entertainment.

      We spent a lot of time working here. The Village Green is a little park a few blocks from downtown and less than a half mile from the Deschutes National Forest. Plus, we were able to shower for $0.25/minute. 

      We parked in the forest overnight, and ran/hiked along the trails during the day. The Sisters Trail Alliance is actively working on new trails.

      Like all of the areas that appeal to us, Sisters has an expansive trails system.

      We only tried one of the two bakeries, Sisters Bakery, but I throughly enjoyed everything we got there. 

      We also checked out Sisters Coffee Co. The inside was a good representation of Sisters: artsy/country/homey.

      Food-wise, we also did an impulse stop at this food truck court. We went with the tacos. 

      Architecturally, it seemed like you could plop this town into a more western cowboy state. 

      Sisters isn’t big, but it had a community feel. This center plaza is where events, like the seasonal farmers market, take place. 

      The Three Sisters, as seen from Sisters.

      And with that, we’ll transition out of Sisters and head over to…

      …Bend. There was a pair artists who created a series of “welcome to” murals across Cental Oregon. 

      Some highlights in Bend included the whitewater park (there were a few kayakers practicing their surf),…

      …the walking trails,…

      …the variety of food options (this was Wild Rose),…

      …and the seemingly abundant entertainment options. As mentioned, there was a free showing of Shrek one of the nights we were in town. 

      For whatever reason, downtown felt a little soulless to me. It was large, but everything felt new, trendy, and transitory. I wouldn’t be surprised if over half of the businesses get replaced within five years for whatever the new trendy vibe is. 

      That said, I would love to eat at the Jackalope Grill if it’s still around the next time we’re in bend. Of course I love the name, but the menu sounded good, too.

      The part of the Deschutes River that runs through town is gorgeous. 

      I don’t know why, but this outdoor theater and the background smokestacks seemed to be iconic locally. 

      We ended our time in the area skiing at Mount Bachelor. Unfortunately it got cold and windy, and the two lifts that service double diamonds were out of commission, so we didn’t have a great time.

      We’ll finish it up with our view of the Sisters from Mount Bachelor before the clouds came in.

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